4 1/2 out of 5 stars
Genre: Comfort Food
Ingredients: sweet potato biscuit, fried chicken, bacon, cheddar, red eye sausage gravy
Review by Nadira Serenity Tribal
Photo by Joshua Fitzwater
Admittedly, I’m not too picky about what I will put in my mouth. I’ve traveled the world and consumed everything from guinea pig brains to meat whose origins could not be translated into English. So when asked to do a food review on the Hella Fitzgerald at the Handsome Biscuit on Colonial Ave. Norfolk I embraced the opportunity to chow down on the eats right here in my local community with open arms, and an empty stomach.
The details of this dish are like the love child of Patrick Henry and James Franco, definitely hipster but unequivocally dripping with the taste of Virginia. The Hella Fitzgerald biscuit sandwich ($6.50) contains boneless fried chicken, bacon, cheddar cheese and red eye gravy. I added the Aguafresca ($1.50) and I suggest you do too.
My well-traveled palate has always loved to come home to good Southern cookin and the Hella did not disappoint in the all-important fried chicken department. I will cut a bitch over some dry ass chicken and all the cooks at the Handsome Biscuit are all in one piece.
I loved the use of thigh meat instead of breast, the stronger flavor balanced the cheddar and red eye gravy and kept the denseness of the sweet potato biscuit from going all Gobi desert in my mouth. Did I mention the Sweet Potato Biscuit!! It takes two things we love below the Mason Dixon line: the beloved biscuit and the sweet potato and transform them both into something better than themselves, slighter denser, slightly sweeter and uniquely delicious.
Now the biscuit sandwiches at the Handsome Biscuit do not come with sides but that’s because in true southern fashion they put everything between the meat and the bread and move on. The bacon, cheddar cheese and red eye gravy on top of my chicken gave over the top flavor to the well done basics of juicy fried chicken and flavorful. The only thing that kind of threw me off from my Williamsburg, Brooklyn meets Virginia Living reverie was the sharp taste of the red eye gravy. Almost blue cheese like but probably due to the use of mustard in addition to the cheddar cheese. That addition is common in places like Mississippi and Alabama but was unexpected but still delicious here in Tidewater.
As I continue my travels in a few weeks to Germany and Italy I will embrace the food there but I will return; hungry for my local vibrant food scene here in the Seven Cities. I’ll definitely head back over to the Handsome Biscuit for my dish of local delish. I give the Hella Fitzgerald 4 and half stars and hope that you will add this charming little spot to your 757 gastro map.
For more on Handsome Biscuit visit their website at www.handsomebiscuit.com
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